Grand Boeuf

Recently, Ruth Reichl reposted an article she had written in 1986. “Adventuring with the Happy Eater” recounted a meal she shared with Calvin Trillin and a few other gastronomic celebrities (Chez Panisse’s Alice Waters among them). Now Trillin, if you don’t know his work, is no culinary snob—or rather he IS, but in reverse. Unimpressed with fancy eats,…