Tryptophanic Leftovers
The most American of holidays is about to arrive—and, since that event is all about stuffing (of more than one kind), I had to have written about it several times. This particular (now slightly altered) piece originally appeared in The Digressions of Dr Sanscravat: Gastronomical Ramblings & Other Diversions:
Thanksgiving
Thanksgiving, which was originally a modified form of older harvest festivals, has gradually evolved into a different kind of harvest festival—one that celebrates processed foods. Family farms have been replaced by agri-business, and the supermarket is the true focus of pre-holiday activity. As a result, entirely new “traditional recipes” have become “family favorites”—traditions that have little or nothing to do with seasonal or regional foods.
It’s nearly impossible to escape a holiday table groaning under the weight of frozen greenbean casserole, sauced with canned soup, and topped with fried onions, also canned. Nearby, the obligatory pan of sweet potatoes (which we mistakenly call “yams”) glow menacingly, their presence partly obscured by a saccharine mantle of melting marshmallows.
In a sense, the holiday has become more, rather than less, of a uniquely American institution. What could be more American than processed foods? Interestingly enough, while most of us wholeheartedly embrace the changes, all the marketing is designed to foster the impression that we are still celebrating the old Thanksgiving.
One can almost picture Squanto and friends, marching out of the forest primeval, bearing cans of cream-of-mushroom soup and baskets of freshly harvested marshmallows.
Editor’s Note: Not surprisingly, Sanscravat has been known to go back for seconds—even after Thanksgiving dinner.
Aside from the turkey, one item on the table might actually have been a part of the Pilgrim’s original feast (albeit in somewhat altered form): cranberry sauce.
A friend used to be one of the line cooks at The Trellis in Williamsburg, VA. Every year, the staff held their own Thanksgiving dinner—and one year he brought his homemade cranberry relish.
Most of the staff complained bitterly about not having canned cranberry jelly.
The following year, he made the same relish—but added raspberry Jell-O, then molded it in a used, but well-scrubbed tin can. The result slid out of the can most satisfyingly—and exhibited the requisite crowd-pleasing ridges.
And it did please the crowd.
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